Resist Dyeing
All colorful textiles are not the result of automated factories with specialized machinery. Artisans have practiced time tested methods for centuries. These produce the most colorful and unique fabric. Most of these methods fall under the category of resist dyeing. So, what is resist dyeing? The word resist gives it away. Wherever the resist substance touches the fabric, the fibers will not absorb the dyes. Resist dyeing is color blocking to create patterns on textile. Any substance or material used on fabric as a means of blocking the penetration of dyes is a resist. Which means that resists can be made from so many different ingredients.
Illustration 1: How Pattern is Created with Batik
Batik wax applied to white fabric in dots and circles.
Resist in action! Color being applied to waxed fabric. See how the circles and dots remain white. The wax prevents the dye from penetrating the fibers.
Color Blocking with Pastes and Waxes
As unassuming as flour, oatmeal, potatoes, sugar and corn are, they are very effective in creating resist patterns on fabric. These work magic in giving textures and depth to fabric. A paste of these ingredients is applied to the fabric. Dye solution is then added to the fabric to create the desired pattern.
Illustration 2: How Pattern is Created with Shibori
- Fabric folded and clamped with string
- Dye solution applied
- Pattern created by the resist folds and ties
Consider also soy wax, beeswax and paraffin wax that create their own unique possibilities using the batik technique. Melted wax is applied to the fabric using an appropriate applicator. Color is then added after the fabric dries, to create the pattern. See Illustration 1.
Color Blocking with Folding and Tying
Even the simple actions in shibori of folding, tying and stitching create another amazing set of patterns on fabric. Fabric is folded and clamped, folded and tied or stitched and gathered. So wherever there is a fold, a tie or a stitch, the fabric will resist the dye. For quick reference, think Tie Dye. Interestingly, Tie Dye is a form of shibori and if you trace the origins of the name (north american), it is literally “tied and dyed”.
Applying the Resist
Artisans are as innovative as they are creative. Therefore the tools used to apply resists to fabric are simple and unexpected. Yet, they create the most unbelievable patterns and texture that would be hard to achieve by commercial manufacturing. The tools used to apply these resists are as simple as the ingredients to make them. Kitchen utensils such as whisks, sponges, brushes and even toilet paper tubes are just a few of the everyday, household items that can be used as applicators.
Designs Using Resists
- Shibori Folding Resist
- Flour Crackle Resist
- Shibori Tying Resist
- Batik Wax Resist
These substances and materials combined with the many techniques, methods and tools of application create an infinite number of designs that can be made on fabric.
Batik waxing is predominant in most of my work. See our batik work in action. However, I also love the effects of a flour paste crackle and the always awesome surprise of shibori. What is your favorite resist method? Which ones would you like to experiment with?